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		<title>Bike Forums - Bicycle Mechanics</title>
		<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.]]></description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:49:40 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>Bike Forums - Bicycle Mechanics</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Front Derailleur Adapter</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604849-Front-Derailleur-Adapter&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 08:23:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 105 front braze-on derailleur and a bike that needs a 28.6 clamp on FD. I know that there are adapters for braze-on to clamp-on. How well do they work? Is there one brand that works better then another? Any issues on mounting that I should know about? Or should I just buy a clamp on FD?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 105 front braze-on derailleur and a bike that needs a 28.6 clamp on FD. I know that there are adapters for braze-on to clamp-on. How well do they work? Is there one brand that works better then another? Any issues on mounting that I should know about? Or should I just buy a clamp on FD?</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>lbear</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604849-Front-Derailleur-Adapter</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Bike size question?</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604848-Bike-size-question&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 08:00:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi I'm a newb. I was wondering when retailers are selling a 52cm bike i.e., are they referring to the top tube?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I'm a newb. I was wondering when retailers are selling a 52cm bike i.e., are they referring to the top tube?</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>ralan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604848-Bike-size-question</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>650b Blunts and Shimano 756 disc hubs</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604838-650b-Blunts-and-Shimano-756-disc-hubs&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 05:39:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I will freely admit I'm not the best wheel builder.  I just haven't built enough of them yet. 
 
Tonight I almost gave myself an ulcer trying to get my back wheel built after the shop closed. 
 
I'm using Velocity Blunt 650b rims and Shimano XT 756 disc hubs.  The spoke holes on the rims are...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I will freely admit I'm not the best wheel builder.  I just haven't built enough of them yet.<br />
<br />
Tonight I almost gave myself an ulcer trying to get my back wheel built after the shop closed.<br />
<br />
I'm using Velocity Blunt 650b rims and Shimano XT 756 disc hubs.  The spoke holes on the rims are drilled right and left of center on the rim.  Using Shimano's recommended lacing pattern for disc hubs, I can't for the life of me get the parallel spokes to line up with the valve hole.  I just need to offset them one spoke hole to get that to line up, but if I do that, the spokes have to cross the center line of the rim and the nipples will be at an odd angle.  Can anyone tell me what the **** I'm doing wrong.  Feel free to blast me with the flame throwers of derision and shame. :o<br />
<br />
Walter</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>BFW</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604838-650b-Blunts-and-Shimano-756-disc-hubs</guid>
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			<title>bar end shifter - related upgrades?</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604837-bar-end-shifter-related-upgrades&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 05:34:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an old mountain bike I am converting for touring.  I want to use bar-end shifters but most of these that I have seen are for 8 or 9-speed cassettes, even 10. 
 
My bike has a 7-speed cassette and I have seen that bar-end shifters can be run in friction mode, but if I wanted indexed shifting,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an old mountain bike I am converting for touring.  I want to use bar-end shifters but most of these that I have seen are for 8 or 9-speed cassettes, even 10.<br />
<br />
My bike has a 7-speed cassette and I have seen that bar-end shifters can be run in friction mode, but if I wanted indexed shifting, could I replace my 7-speed cassette with an 8-speed?  Will my rear derailleur be an issue?  It is a Shimano Deore LX.<br />
<br />
Or would it be better to buy a set of 7-speed indexed shifters and convert them for bar ends using the bar end shifter pods available from Rivendell?<br />
<br />
And finally, is there anything else I should be aware of?  I won't be doing this for a few months, but just want to gather information now.</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>Angus37</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604837-bar-end-shifter-related-upgrades</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Egg beaters</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604835-Egg-beaters&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 05:22:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I put on some egg beaters on a bike a few months ago, but today when I wanted to take them off I realized the nut was round and my brake wrench is for the normal shape. How did I get them on? How do I get them off?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I put on some egg beaters on a bike a few months ago, but today when I wanted to take them off I realized the nut was round and my brake wrench is for the normal shape. How did I get them on? How do I get them off?</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>Crawling_key</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604835-Egg-beaters</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rear Wheel Spoke Noise</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604811-Rear-Wheel-Spoke-Noise&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 03:21:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 27" rear wheel just built around 800 miles ago... makes too much noise with spokes rubbing where they cross. Had it looked at today.. drive 
side is very tight... non drive side is too loose. More or less was told that releasing all the tension on the spokes would cause the rim to go out...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 27&quot; rear wheel just built around 800 miles ago... makes too much noise with spokes rubbing where they cross. Had it looked at today.. drive<br />
side is very tight... non drive side is too loose. More or less was told that releasing all the tension on the spokes would cause the rim to go out of round..<br />
and hard to then get back round and true....... <br />
<br />
Rim is a good quality alloy.. I am told.. and the spokes are stainless.. 36 hole rim. On an older Schwinn.. of which I have about gone thru now.<br />
<br />
Why can't this rim be stabilized.. in some brace/bracket... and the spokes loosened.. the then retightened??<br />
<br />
Got wayyyy too much coin in this whole mess this yr... 1600 mi only since April.. 2nd wheel...3-4 sessions in the shop trying to get things right... I<br />
like the man who did the work.. just don't think I'll ever even let him lube my chain.. at this pt. The 'new' shop I am trying gave me the 'cant loosen'<br />
scenario. <br />
<br />
The noise riding is more than annoying.......... :). Did read the articles per spoking and building a wheel.. good stuff. I've been told a wheel should last thousands of <br />
miles......... the original did. <br />
<br />
Your help.. advice would be greatly appreciated. I am learning the ropes.. but just getting started understanding the repair end.</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>SortaGrey</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604811-Rear-Wheel-Spoke-Noise</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>11 speed back-compatibility question</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604799-11-speed-back-compatibility-question&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 02:12:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a perfectly serviceable 9 speed Campy Record rear hub (approx. 1998 vintage based on  appearance and Exadrive Mk2 cassette). I wish to install an 11 speed cassette on this hub. 
 
The spline pattern on the two seem to match. The 11 speed cassette fits with only 2 issues: i) smallest cog is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a perfectly serviceable 9 speed Campy Record rear hub (approx. 1998 vintage based on  appearance and Exadrive Mk2 cassette). I wish to install an 11 speed cassette on this hub.<br />
<br />
The spline pattern on the two seem to match. The 11 speed cassette fits with only 2 issues: i) smallest cog is not 100% on spline - it overhangs a fraction  (may disappear when lock ring tightened?) ii) the 11 speed lock ring is a different thread diameter.<br />
<br />
Are there any known issues with using the 9 speed lock ring instead of the 11 speed lock ring to attach the cassette? Anything else I should be wary of?</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>11Campagnolo7</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604799-11-speed-back-compatibility-question</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>spoke tension</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604795-spoke-tension&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 01:41:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Putting together some wheels and I am wondering about spoke tension. All the books and manuals say to use the rim specifications to determine desired/maximum spoke tension. I have Mavic A319 rims, but the Mavic site doesn't mention spoke tension. It has nipple length, tire sizes, and some other...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Putting together some wheels and I am wondering about spoke tension. All the books and manuals say to use the rim specifications to determine desired/maximum spoke tension. I have Mavic A319 rims, but the Mavic site doesn't mention spoke tension. It has nipple length, tire sizes, and some other stuff, but no spoke tension. Does anyone know where a person can find this out for various rims?</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>sawatdee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604795-spoke-tension</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Sizing and a quill to threadless convertor?</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604777-Sizing-and-a-quill-to-threadless-convertor&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 23:34:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We've all seen them, the quill convertors that allow you to install a threadless stem on a threaded fork. I have an old Burley tandem that will be a compromise between two height extremes. I figured it was probably better for me to be raised up higher 
and extended out front a little, than the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We've all seen them, the quill convertors that allow you to install a threadless stem on a threaded fork. I have an old Burley tandem that will be a compromise between two height extremes. I figured it was probably better for me to be raised up higher<br />
and extended out front a little, than the stoker being on too tall of a bike. Plus the bike was foud that way. Are these considered<br />
fairly safe? I need a good 3-4 inches of rise to put the bars where I need them, and I have a nice 115mm threadless stem that will put me about where I need to be. I want to run drop bars about level with the saddle for long distance comfort. To give you an idea of what I am up against, here is the bike in as found condition, with the saddle up front at the height I need it for correct leg extension. Maybe I should drop the cash for a technomic deluxe and call it a day?,,,,BD<br />
<br />
Forgive the condition, it is a recent acquisition, and will get the full treatment.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/DSCN0068.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>Bikedued</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604777-Sizing-and-a-quill-to-threadless-convertor</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Stripping a titanium frame</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604747-Stripping-a-titanium-frame&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 20:49:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Sorry if this is the wrong place to put this, but this seemed to be the best bet. 
 
I am now the proud owner of a new Lynskey frame.  Got a good deal on it, partially due to some purely cosmetic paint damage.  That got me thinking about stripping the paint and leaving the titanium exposed.  I love...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sorry if this is the wrong place to put this, but this seemed to be the best bet.<br />
<br />
I am now the proud owner of a new Lynskey frame.  Got a good deal on it, partially due to some purely cosmetic paint damage.  That got me thinking about stripping the paint and leaving the titanium exposed.  I love the look.<br />
<br />
I spoke with a stripping company who has done other titanium frames, but have never done a Lynskey, and had some questions about the prep work the factory before painting (i.e. frame scuffed before priming to promote adhesion, or if it was cleaned and was primed with a self etching primer).  I spoke with someone at Lynskey today and they seem to consider the prep and paint process they use to be some kind of trade secret and weren't forthcoming with information.<br />
<br />
So, my question to the forum is:  has anyone done this, or had it done?  What sort of results did you have?  I'm leaning towards having it dunked to strip everything, I just want to be sure that I'd be able to get a nice finish on it once I go over it with a 3M pad or something similar.<br />
<br />
Any thoughts?</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>Andy Somnifac</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604747-Stripping-a-titanium-frame</guid>
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			<title>Left pedal at weird angle. Will only go in at that angle.  HALP!</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604737-Left-pedal-at-weird-angle-Will-only-go-in-at-that-angle-HALP&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 19:42:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So, I just noticed that my LEFT pedal is going into the crank arm at sort of a weird angle.  I don't recall it being that way before.  
 
After removing it with a wrench, and trying for close to 1 hour to ease it in straight, I'm close to giving up.  It only goes in at that same weird angle.   
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So, I just noticed that my LEFT pedal is going into the crank arm at sort of a weird angle.  I don't recall it being that way before. <br />
<br />
After removing it with a wrench, and trying for close to 1 hour to ease it in straight, I'm close to giving up.  It only goes in at that same weird angle.  <br />
<br />
Could the threading inside the crankarm have gotten stripped while I was riding? Why else would the pedal be at this weird angle and only screw in like that?  Maybe some WD40 will help? <br />
<br />
I'm REALLY hoping I don't need a new crankarm... it's a relatively new bike!</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>NateRod</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604737-Left-pedal-at-weird-angle-Will-only-go-in-at-that-angle-HALP</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Leaking tire, rim to blame?</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604726-Leaking-tire-rim-to-blame&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:38:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, 
 
I have a cheap bike with 27 x 1 1/4 tires. My front tire had been giving me issues for some time, I'd pump it to about 90 psi (it can take upto 105) and it'd be flat in a couple of hours. Got a new tube and well, rideable pressure lasts for a day max. Changed the valve set...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello everyone,<br />
<br />
I have a cheap bike with 27 x 1 1/4 tires. My front tire had been giving me issues for some time, I'd pump it to about 90 psi (it can take upto 105) and it'd be flat in a couple of hours. Got a new tube and well, rideable pressure lasts for a day max. Changed the valve set (schrader) too on the new tube. <br />
<br />
Only bits left are the rim or the tire, because I've checked for punctures on both tubes and found nothing. Loss of pressure persists even when its parked. Its in my apartment so no one's fiddling around with it either. It doesn't have particularly good rim tape. Also a couple of spokes protrude by about 1 or 2 screw threads (maximum). Is this protrusion enough to cause a leak? Anything else on the rim that I should look for? I've hardly done 50 miles on the bike so an aging tire is out of the equation. I have the exact same tire and tube set on the rear wheel and that hardly loses pressure. <br />
<br />
Thank you for your time!</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>kitteh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604726-Leaking-tire-rim-to-blame</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Should a tire last longer than 1/2 hr?</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604676-Should-a-tire-last-longer-than-1-2-hr&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 14:37:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This is a rhetorical question.  The answer is obviously, "YES".  However, this is not the case when you switch from 27" wheels to 700c wheels and forget to adjust your brake pads....like I did....and have your pads wear through the sidewall in 1/2 hr. 
 
I feel like an idiot, but at least I noticed...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This is a rhetorical question.  The answer is obviously, &quot;YES&quot;.  However, this is not the case when you switch from 27&quot; wheels to 700c wheels and forget to adjust your brake pads....like I did....and have your pads wear through the sidewall in 1/2 hr.<br />
<br />
I feel like an idiot, but at least I noticed before I had a blowout.  Thought I'd make an example of myself for the benefit of others.</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>engo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604676-Should-a-tire-last-longer-than-1-2-hr</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>OMM Ultimate lowrider rack</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604647-OMM-Ultimate-lowrider-rack&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 07:01:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've just received one of these racks in the mail, and am unashamed to say I can't work out how exactly to mount it... and the old man mountain instructions are, well, less than instructive. Anyone have experience putting one of these on? particularly on a road bike without brake bosses? Even...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I've just received one of these racks in the mail, and am unashamed to say I can't work out how exactly to mount it... and the old man mountain instructions are, well, less than instructive. Anyone have experience putting one of these on? particularly on a road bike without brake bosses? Even just some pictures of some installed setups would be hugely helpful haha, the ones on the OMM site don't actually SHOW anything,<br />
<br />
cheers, Lachlan</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>lachy94</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604647-OMM-Ultimate-lowrider-rack</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>New disk brake pads rubbing</title>
			<link>http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604634-New-disk-brake-pads-rubbing&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 05:13:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My Giant Iguana has Hayes HMX-1 mechanical disk brakes, I just replaced the pads for the first time. Of course, the fresh pads are significantly thicker than the old ones and when I install the front wheel, the rotor sits right up against the inside (stationary) pad. The inside pad adjustment dial...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My Giant Iguana has Hayes HMX-1 mechanical disk brakes, I just replaced the pads for the first time. Of course, the fresh pads are significantly thicker than the old ones and when I install the front wheel, the rotor sits right up against the inside (stationary) pad. The inside pad adjustment dial is all the way out, and the pressure is constant so I doesn't seem like it's a rotor alignment issue. It's just enough pressure to make an annoying noise and prevent the wheel from spinning freely. Any ideas about how to fix this?<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Will</div>

 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?10-Bicycle-Mechanics">Bicycle Mechanics</category>
			<dc:creator>diggersf</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?604634-New-disk-brake-pads-rubbing</guid>
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